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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2012
     
    Why not tell the CO to be truly authentic you will be applying the 1650 building regulation:bigsmile:
  1.  
    Posted By: joe90Thanks for the photo but it does not show much detail regarding how it is fixed (sorry), how about a small cross sectional sketch showing how its fixed in and the shape of the stone surround,then we can come up with some idea's that your CO can reject!!!!!


    joe90

    Not a lot to show.The glass is just resting in the opening with lime mortar used as putty on either side to keep the glass in place
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2012 edited
     
    Which is frequently the case in stonework in vernacular buildings, at best there would be a metal 'lug' mortared into the masonry at intervals to support the "glazing". And as John has already said, there are places where the original metal fixing bars were in place to which the leaded lights were fixed (similarly in wooden frames also).

    Actually, John, could that not be done now to give backing support to the lead-camed 3g? (The 'lugs'.)
  2.  
    I am also looking for window solutions for my stone mullions and saw this:

    http://www.touchstoneglazing.co.uk/Kimbo-Cottage-34-ne.html

    The 3G frameless windows look nice, but the opening leaf really doesn't and so I think my search will have to continue but they might fit your requirements. They also received listed building approval, which amazed me, especially with the openers.
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2012 edited
     
    Good find. Could be the answer to your prayers, John, especially as the examples shown are in your part of the country.

    Wonder how their cost would look spread over 80+ windows though, 'cos I bet they ain't cheap!:shocked:

    (Whilst the openers aren't exactly what I'd expect to see, a tad incongruous, they aren't that far off what you'll find in many old buildings with metal casements. I've fitted similar, but of slimmer section with an overall profile on the openers of just over an inch, but that was all single-glazed. If you want the d/g or 3g then you've got to sacrifice something in exchange for the benefits I guess.)
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2012 edited
     
    That is an eye opener - raises lots of 'how exactly' questions, which aren't answered here - "ring us for sales chat" no doubt.

    The metal openers look great to me - seen many old examples just like that, in amongst frameless fixed glass in adjoining openings. Next to solid stone mullions their thermally poor steel frames won't make matters much worse. It'd be possible to face those mullions internally with an aerogel laminate, significantly better than nothing, tho if you really want to see stone internally, forget that.

    Read this in parallel with http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/comments.php?DiscussionID=8551&page=2#Item_15
  3.  
    Its interesting to see your comments about the opening windows, and it made me look at them with new eyes. While I do think they stand out, on reflection if they had been powder coated in a silver or cream instead of jet black and if they were at the end of the series of mullions rather than in the middle, perhaps they wouldn't stand out quite so much!

    That cottage isn't a million miles away from where I live either so perhaps worth a road trip to have a toot. :)
  4.  
    If I do go down the route of no opening windows what is the requirement for mechanical ventilation in listed buildings. Bearing in mind its a draughty old farmhouse with chimneys in living rooms and bedrooms with esse in kitchen
    • CommentAuthorpmagowan
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2012
     
    I looked into MVHR for my house with lots of chimneys and came to the conclusion that it was folly. Since the efficiency is more important than the chimneys I am removing them except for 1 room sealed stove and one room sealed range cooker. For a start there is no need for the MVHR if air tightness is not good (although some people say they prefer the air quality it gives) and for seconds it could compete with the fire and cause smoke to be drawn into the house (or worse, invisible fumes).
    • CommentAuthorpmagowan
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2012
     
    P.S. I am keeping the fireplaces for looks, just decommissioning them.
  5.  
    Whats the best recommendation for the triple glaze sandwich bearing in mind we need to stop as much heat going out but allowing as much heat in as possible. Due to the thermal mass of the house we need as much solar gain as possible. Although bear in mind we have 82 windows to replace so it must be cost effective.
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2012
     
    John, use this excellent tool. You can play around to your heart's content, get an idea of what you need and then ask around to see what you can afford...

    http://www.pilkington.com/europe/uk+and+ireland/english/building+products/pilkington4architects/tools/pilkington+spectrum.htm
  6.  
    Joiner

    Thanks for that but I cannot get it to work on my Mac so have asked for a Mac version
  7.  
    OK so going for triple glaze glass with either 12mm or 16mm Argon gap. Looking on the pilkington site I was looking at Active on the outside to reduce cleaning, Optifloat in the centre and Optitherm GS on the inside for insulation. Anybody see any problems with this or recommend anything better. I have had a local glass company quote for this mix and they have come back and recommend tough glass for each pane otherwise it will shatter when made into a 3g unit ??? sales speak or is this correct as I am not used to Argon or even 3g units. They have come up with a price of £103 + vat per m2 which for my little windows works out at £30 +vat per window. Does not sound so bad until you multiply by 82.
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2012 edited
     
    Just spoken to my glass supplier and he's as amazed as I am. He confirmed the price as being reasonable. Your unit size (based on the dims you gave me) put it just over the 0.25 sq/m minimum charge, thankfully.

    As to the toughening? He's no idea without talking to the manufacturer, but guessed it might have to do with the smaller unit's not having the "flexibility" to cope with the stresses of any movement that might occur, the middle pane being the one most likely to be affected. When I described your situation (fairly exposed location, old building) he dismissed the possibility of heat build-up, especially with the Optitherm, ended up plumping for the risk of stress breakage.

    I can see where he's coming from on that, given that the units will be bedded directly onto the stonework. If you think about it, the 3g WILL actually make the unit more rigid than either a 2g or, especially, a single pane, because as you'll see from those drawings I sent you the glazing (including the mortar) covers the whole of that flat mullion face.

    [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2po60cg.jpg[/IMG]

    The lead is Code 6. And the run of sealant around the edge of the lead came isn't shown.

    Anyone else got any suggestions? The drawing gives you the actual situation.

    The only other alternative I considered instead of the foam, John, was to use something like Exotex RAG/45 (rafter gasket) around the periphery... http://www.exitex.com/Capex/ItemInfo.aspx?PartRef=1.09.245.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2012
     
    Posted By: renewablejohnIf I do go down the route of no opening windows..


    Escape from fire?
  8.  
    Are the windows wide enough to get through even if they did open??
  9.  
    Posted By: CWatters
    Posted By: renewablejohnIf I do go down the route of no opening windows..


    Escape from fire?


    At the moment the opening windows are to narrow to crawl out of but I did think we might be able to push out the whole 3g pane in case of emergency as it will only be held in with a bead of lime mortar and the expanding foam.
  10.  
    Joiner

    Just like to say thanks publicly for such excellent drawings I hope I dont set a precedent otherwise you might be inundated.
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2012 edited
     
    No probs, John. But thanks anyway. CAD makes it all very easy.

    As to the fire escape issue, remember that you can get away with "as long as you haven't made the situation worse than before", the "before" being fixed lights anyway!

    BC won't be happy with the crude-but-effective answer of a well-placed size 10, but then I doubt they'd be happy even if the windows were openers, given that the effective escape area would be 300mm wide at best, and then only if the casement was top-hung and metal-framed, which defeats a lot of the object of the 3g and original proposed fixing method to reduce cold-bridging to a minimum and provide a look that coincides with the historic character of the building, which is what the CO is concerned to keep, in which case they'd be looking for an alternative means of escape, which is an entirely different subject. :sad:
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