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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorDaniel
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2007
     
    I am currently involved in the renovation of a two story medium sized building near to the coast in South Wales. The existing wall is a single leaf brickwork and I am aiming to reach a U - value of 0.2. I am trying to look at the cladding system holistically. e.g. life cycle costs, maintenance. Natural materials are preferable but will other standard products present the opportunity for longer life expectancy and durability? I want to put as least loading on the existing walls as possible, so I imagine products such as Diffitherm will present problems if directly fixed to the brick work, so a lightweight vertical frame structure hung to the existing concrete slab top and bottom will probably be more appropriate. Can any one help in suggesting a successful cladding system that achieves a high energy efficiency, sustainable credentials and for fills the brief satisfactorily.
    Any examples, suggestions would be brilliant. Thankyou
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2007
     
    How about 120mm of eps on the outside and then lime rendered onto metal lathing or mini grid?

    I know that eps (expanded polystyrene) is not natural but it is a good use of an oil based product and it wont go rotten.
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2007
     
    You could also use 100mm heraklith board together with lime render - no need for metal lath with this just a reinforcement layer of fibreglass layered into the lime render.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2007 edited
     
    50x35 battens, multifoil insulation, 50x35 counterbattens, feather edged cedar boarding - luvvly, weighs nothing. Or rendermesh and roughcast lime render, ventilation up behind it. Gives full-heating-season heat retention equivalent to 200-250 mineral wool. Total thickness 95mm.
    • CommentAuthorSuz
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2007
     
    Fostertom, could you give a few more details about the combo with the feather edged cedar boarding - it's just what I'm contemplating for a similar concrete bathroom extension?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeDec 7th 2007
     
    If, with top-notch wall /roof and window insulation, airtightness and controlled, preferably heat-recovery ventilation, your bathroom extension will be kept warm 24hrs, then such external insulation/cladding on internally plastered single-skin blockwork will be ideal - heavy(ish) interior. With Structural Engineer input, that could be 140 or even 100 blockwork - how easy is that?! If it's just to be warmed-up as needed, then you need a lightweight interior - the cladding, uninsulated, on the blockwork, then battens, multifoil, counterbattens, plasterboard internally. Or the cladding on say 120x50 studwork structure with 75 Cellotex between, and airtight internal multifoil, counterbattens and plasterboard. Until a few days ago - see http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=125&page=7#Item_5 - and maybe even now - for a newbuild extension, relying on multifoil alone for insulation would have been difficult to get past the Building Inspector - but no problem with thus improving the existing house, if his jurisdiction doesn't cover that. However he would accept the studded Cellotex-plus-multifoil solution. Any other questions, ask.
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