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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeOct 19th 2012
     
    Can anyone recommend a sealing tape to seal windows in brickwork cavity walls with an SFS inner leaf?

    And detail-wise do you just tape from the window directly onto the SFS and then plasterboard over?
  1.  
    Tremco illbruck produce a series of butyl tapes for window installation.

    http://www.tremco-illbruck.co.uk/products/04412_index.html

    http://www.tremco-illbruck.co.uk/celumdb/documents/illbruck_i3_BBA_-_PS4_21942.pdf

    The illbruck ME500 Duo Membrane E is designed to be fitted after the windows & Membrane W is fitted before the windows. The latter has acrylic tape on one side designed to fix to the perimeter of the frame & butyl tape on the other designed to fix to a masonry inner leaf. Its available in widths up to 140mm.

    Ideally it should be secured to the inner leaf with expanded metal lath & incorporated into wet plaster. As a minimum it should be secured under a batten or plasterboard.

    David
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeOct 19th 2012
     
    Posted By: ShevekCan anyone recommend a sealing tape to seal windows in brickwork cavity walls with an SFS inner leaf?
    Do you mean a Light Steel Frame? If so I have a similar issue; do you have external (to the frame) insulation?
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2012
     
    I mean Steel Frame System, but it's the same diff for our purposes: http://www.kingspanprofiles.com/kingspan_cms/GetFile.aspx?title=Kingframe+SFS+Design+Guide&dc=LITERATURE&guid=f1a515ac-3b25-4e96-828c-e828a9af3063

    Need to seal to galvanised steel and plasterboard over.

    Yes we have 100 mm rigid board insulation external to frame (+ 100 mm mineral wool infill to the frame).
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2012
     
    Ah OK. Are you using a plywood box or fixing direct to the frame?

    I am using a ply box, fixed to the window before fitting, then fixing that directly to the steel frame (with a small amount of silicone type sealant or glue) with a 5mm gap each side for packing. The outside of the window frame is going to be inline with the outside face of the insulation then the blockwork turned back against the window/insulation. I am thinking of using Soudal Flexifoam between the frame/ply box and possibly a tape wrapped over the inside corner stuck to the ply and the steel frame. I also need to put some master board

    As a matter of interest, I assume you have a 50mm cavity. How are you finishing the blockwork/window interface as it has been a huge point of discussion here!
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2012
     
    We're sitting the window partly on brickwork over a seal and fixing back to the SFS with lugs.

    We have 100 mm insulation + 50 mm residual cavity, so a 150 mm cavity closer.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2012
     
    Not my drafting this one, but here's the preliminary detail.

    Contractor needs to reach air permeability of <3.5m3/hm2.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2012
     
    Posted By: ShevekWe're sitting the window partly on brickwork over a seal and fixing back to the SFS with lugs.
    We have 100 mm insulation + 50 mm residual cavity, so a 150 mm cavity closer.
    Nicely drawn detail. Typical 'UK' detailing! The trouble is really that these cavity closers are really poor in terms of being air tight from the outside so there is lots of cold air getting close to the inside face (IMHO).

    This is part of my reason for using a ply box round the window to support it and sitting the outside of the window flush with the outside of the insulation. The other problem I had was finding a Cavity closer that would do the 170mm gap (120mm insulation).

    If you can reduce the size of the windows to take a ply box I would, and bring the windows in using the check reveal clip at least to the inner face of the brick.

    If you cant, I'd put a thin ply box inside the window (against the cavity closer) and tape the window/Air tight membrane to that so you have something solid to tape against.

    You have an item 11 as VCL, presumably this is the air tight layer as well?
  2.  
    I'd agree with Borpin's comments on the window position. Bring it inside the outer leaf, seal it to the outer leaf for weathertightness & to the VCL for airtightness.

    David
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