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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorJeff
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2007 edited
     
    Hi Guys,

    My first post so be gentle. We are about to buy a detached bungalow sitting half way up a hill in a village in North Yorkshire. The bungalow is circa 1970's and is a wreck. It is cavity wall construction with no cavity closers. The inner skin is cheap clinker type block and the outer skin is cement brick with a stone style riven finish giving an uneaven outer surface. South is 'up slope' & we will get a lot of wind hitting the house from the exposed North. Think of this as a shell. The oil fired boiler (a relic), the wet rad heating system, the old immersion heater, the rotten single glazed wooden windows, minimal loft insulation, etc are all going. This is a complete renovation job. While I have a history in new builds, renovations, conversions, etc this is the first time I have deliberately set out to 'go green'. I'll search & start other posts on heating, roof insulation, double glazing, etc but for the minute it is the wall insulation I'm scratching my head over.

    First off I will be insulating & making air tight as much as I can. I do not want to dry line inside as this will cut room sizes too much. As I see things my options are:

    1. Rebuild the outer skin in thermal block and wet render - not my preferred choice.

    2. Batten, add a vapour barrier and clad with timber or other material (options?). If I do this how about additional insulation? Any material laid against the uneaven bricks will leave air gaps - what about condensation? The only thing I can think of that wouldn't is a mat material or applied foam. Due to the property shape I could end up with a really nice chalet style exterior as a by product of improving the insulation ( I am not a fan of the dated mock stone style finish).

    3. I would also like to fill the existing cavity to improve insulation. Any reasons not to (especially if I clad externally and this then becomes a 'middle wall')? Blown rockwool, foam or any other suitable materials? What about sagging and or damp transferrance?

    Any advice gratfully received - especially the technical point on condensation behind any solid external insulation.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2007
     
    It sounds to more like a planning permission shell. Consider demolition of the outside walls, build in cavity insulation, fibreglass batts? say 200mm, re build outside skin down to foundations. While outer skin is off sort out air sealing, cavity closures etc.

    New windows-- northern European high specification ones?
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2007
     
    Why don't you insulate externally with a lime render finish?
    • CommentAuthorJeff
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2007
     
    Thanks for input Tony,

    There will be planning permissions involved as I am going up into a very big loft space and making it bigger still (a whole new subject). I could strip the bricks, create an outer stud construction and insulate heavily, before adding vapour barrier and cladding. This is another option. What about cladding the existing structure as in my original post? Whichever way I go this will be a lot of work. I haven't looked into replacement windows yet. Need to get my head round the best & most economical way to improve insulation in the walls as this will involve structural changes or additions.
    • CommentAuthorJeff
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2007
     
    Nigel, never used lime render before - any good for insulation value? Cost of application, ongoing maintenance & weathering considerations? Could combine this with simply filling the cavity.
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2007
     
    Lime doesn't give any additional insulation value its just a product that has less embodied energy, is more flexible and breathable than the other options.

    Costs depend on specification for external insulation but 100mm heraklith wood wool board and insulation will probably cost about £20 sqm and the render £40-50 per sq m.

    Don't see why you cannot insulate the cavity fully as well.
  1.  
    I guess there is no reason why you can't get a grant for cavity wall insulation? I think I'd get that done before anyone tries to make out you are a developer which might disqualify you - it will be the cheapest insulation you ever get! My preference would be for PU foam in the cavity.

    Then I'd calculate the U-value of the wall and work out what thickness of insulation I needed to apply externally to get the U-value down to PassivHaus levels, say 0.1. If you search for "Build Desk" you can download some software that will do this for you. Look on the Kingspan website for Kooltherm. I guess you might have to render the walls to get them flat before fixing the boards.
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