Fri, 14 Aug 2026 22:08:31 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11682#Comment_11682 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11682#Comment_11682 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 08:59:29 +0000 TheDoctor
Happy New Year!

I have been lurking here for a good while now, but have now joined up, as building works are a lot more imminent!

I am extending / part re-furbishing a Scottish Steading.

All the new, and part of the old will be built well beyond current building regs in terms of air tightness, insulation, triple glazing, etc etc.

However, due to financial constraints and other issues, i am not able to fully upgrade all of the older part of the building to my preferred level.
The new area is all underfloor heating, but the old (just bedrooms, so never more than 16 - 17 degrees) is served by conventional radiators.
I am insulating and draft proofing beneath the existing floors in all but one room, and will be replacing all the existing central heating pipe runs and solving all the fit sized holes in the floor.

so, question,
do i lay the new central heating pipes above the insulation quilt and breather membrane in notches in the joists, through the insulation in holes through the joists, or well lagged and underneath the whole lot?

My brain suggests they should be above all the insulation to ensure any heat loss makes it into the house rather than the floor void.

I have read numerous threads about insulating and draft proofing floors, but cant find reference to pipe-zones.

thanks!

The Doctor]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11683#Comment_11683 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11683#Comment_11683 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:09:04 +0000 Mike George https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11685#Comment_11685 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11685#Comment_11685 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:28:54 +0000 TheDoctor
joists are big enough, and mostly across a corridor, so only 1100 long anyway!, and notches will be between 10 & 25% from ends, as specified.

This is clearly easier with a quilt insulation, and a pain with board insulation. I am unlikely to go as far as a wool insulation. What would you recomend?


from a green point of view, i'm assuming copper over plastic? or am i wrong?
both are from a finite source, both require lots of energy to make, and both are recyclable! Is this an issue?!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11686#Comment_11686 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11686#Comment_11686 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:31:10 +0000 Mike George https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11690#Comment_11690 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11690#Comment_11690 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:41:46 +0000 jamesingram
the 'whole house book' suggests polybutylene for hot and cold and polyethylene for underground service
copper comes third after steel
though I'm unsure if this is the up to date thinking

I use the speedfit range as its labour saving , less joints required , easily reusable demountable fitting
I had one joint fail in the last 5 years , which you might expect from copper
and it made up the road from my house


they make a polybutylene for the underfloor heating pipe which can be used for H and C]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11691#Comment_11691 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11691#Comment_11691 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:42:07 +0000 tony
If you have sleeper walls with plates then notching above the plates is best.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11696#Comment_11696 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11696#Comment_11696 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:52:39 +0000 TheDoctor
no sleeper walls - notched into existing stone walls
apart from short lengths, the majority of the pipe runs follow a long corridor, with only short intrusion into rooms to the radiators, and all of these intrusions, bar one, follow the joist line, so i'm laughing.

will go for plastic - my preference, just unsure of their green credentials - relative to alternatives.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11698#Comment_11698 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11698#Comment_11698 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 10:17:52 +0000 Mike George
Now you have to decide which type of quilt - conductivities are similar but the greener ones are more expensive]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11699#Comment_11699 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11699#Comment_11699 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 10:23:26 +0000 jamesingram is strawberry mesh a good (cheaper) alternative to breathable felt
ie draught proof yet breathable

Jim]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11704#Comment_11704 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11704#Comment_11704 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 10:32:05 +0000 Mike George https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11706#Comment_11706 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11706#Comment_11706 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 10:33:56 +0000 tony https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11720#Comment_11720 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11720#Comment_11720 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 13:06:28 +0000 TheDoctor i was considering a warm side barrier too, but with the pipe runs etc, it will probably get too complicated, so underneath only. The drafty old floorboards, though appealing, have to go (they're knackered) and a new floor will be better draft proofed than boards with the tongues missing / damaged

yes, i need to choose the quilt.
cant go for the wool fleece at the top of the market, but keen to do something with at least a nod in the green direction.
Any ideas?

thanks for the comments so far]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11722#Comment_11722 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11722#Comment_11722 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 13:18:15 +0000 Mike George http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=772&page=2#Item_3]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11728#Comment_11728 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11728#Comment_11728 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 14:47:32 +0000 TheDoctor
looks good. I like the sound of it, and the itch-free factor helps!

will look at pricing...

thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11737#Comment_11737 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11737#Comment_11737 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 15:59:26 +0000 tony https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11739#Comment_11739 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11739#Comment_11739 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 16:22:13 +0000 Mike George 1. Fill the gaps between t&g floorboards/weyrock and masonry with expanding foam [not below any DPC] Trim when cured
2. Fix the skirting and wait for it to acclimatise/shrink
3. Fill any gaps with mastic]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11740#Comment_11740 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11740#Comment_11740 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 16:22:43 +0000 TheDoctor external wall plaster on 600mm thick sanstone (largely bossed) is coming off, so i have full control over this junction where i am carrying out this exercise.

internal wall plaster is wet plaster to brick and either being replaced, removed to expose brick, or retained.

largely speaking, i am taking these areas back to basics, so not having to chase earlier faults to ground.

ANYTHING is better than the current floor where i can push my fingers through up to the knuckles in at least 3 places!

I did a very quick calculation on the floor alone, and estimate (conservatively) that the current open area of the floor to the solum is somewhere in the region of 0.3 sqm. Alternatively known as a barn door!

having read here for a while, i am learning the importance of air leakage!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11741#Comment_11741 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049&Focus=11741#Comment_11741 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 16:24:03 +0000 TheDoctor