Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.

The AECB accepts no responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in the content of this site. Views given in posts are not necessarily the views of the AECB.



    • CommentAuthorDave_07968
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2015
     
    Hi,

    Rear extension needs to be gutted and fixed up. The room is about 30m2 with a beam and block floor which is currently topped with timber / chipboard and carpet. Total height is ~100mm over the blockwork at present.

    I'd like UFH, but like everyone else it would make my life much easier if the finished floor level didn't change too much.

    As we both work and often travel I think I would prefer a low thermal mass option if possible.

    I'm wondering about fitting celotex directly against the blockwork floor, then over-battening to support some kind of engineered wood flooring, with the UFH pipework running @ 100mm centres in a dry pug mix between the battens (the same way that you would run UFH over a suspended timber floor). Alternatively I believe you can get proprietary panels with pipe runs routed in - or I could route them out myself.

    Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I'm planning to fit a significant depth of celotex (perhaps 100mm) on the walls and also re-roof the flat roof, but then again we have a lot of glass (14m2) to let the heat out. Let's just say it's not a design that you could build today!
  1.  
    Hi Dave, Yep, pretty much no problem with what you propose for the floor. There are lots of similar specifications with BBA Certification. Run a sGoodle earch for Celotex or Kingspan suspended floor insulation and they should come up.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    Careful to avoid draughts, might be better without the battens going for floating floor with two layers
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    We have a beam and block floor with 80mm deep battens on top and this system between..

    See "Foiled Poly – Battened floors"
    http://www.wavin.co.uk/web/solutions/heating-cooling/underfloor-heating/dry-construction-floors-hep2o.htm

    I think it's actually the thinnest version they do plus PIR to make it up to the 80mm.

    Then 20mm engineered oak floor secret nailed and glued on top. The minimum you can use is 18mm but 20/21mm is better I think.

    Warms up quite quickly as no screed or pug mix.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    and no spreader plates?
    • CommentAuthorDave_07968
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    Looks like it has spreader plates moulded onto the board... interesting. Any idea what this stuff costs / sq m CWatters?

    tony, would it be possible to go for a floating floor without a proper screed?

    In an ideal world I'd like to just put a screed over celotex but we'll need a good depth of insulation as the void below the beam & block is howlingly ventilated, and that makes the total build up too deep (the windows come down to not much above the current finished floor level).
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    Yes floating without screde but with flooring, then engineered flooring
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    Posted By: tony…but with flooring…
    Do you mean “with spreader plates”?
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015 edited
     
    Posted By: Dave_07968would it be possible to go for a floating floor without a proper screed?


    Hi Dave, some modern screeds as thin as 40mm - (gypsum self levelling)

    A wet screed will be completely airtight so the howling gale is irrelevant to the amount of insulation - If you think about it it is no worse than a wall (the external conditions being the same) Indeed a floor of this type with as little as 50mm PIR Insulation will have less heat loss than most walls in cavity walled houses ever built..!
    • CommentAuthorDave_07968
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    Okay - thanks for the input. Might need to strip back at the window and measure exactly how much height is available.

    The next fun thing is trying to figure out how to do the roof. I was hoping it could just have celotex fitted onto the existing roof with EPDM on top to finish, but this skims over a million details (it's on two sides of the house and also has a porch projecting back from it, making it a t-shaped roof seen from above, and has all the original downpipes piercing it, along with internal guttering and other wonders... PITA!
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2015
     
    Posted By: Dave_07968Looks like it has spreader plates moulded onto the board... interesting. Any idea what this stuff costs / sq m CWatters?


    Sorry no. It was installed >10 years ago.

    The spreader plates are quite thin aluminium covered in a thin plastic. The plastic is intended to stop clicks and ticks as the floor warms up.
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press