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    This is a project thread about the renovation of a 1970 2/3 bed 67sqm semi-detached bungalow I have just purchased which requires almost everything doing to it.

    Watch this space.
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2016
    Becoming Little Green Bungalow?
    We shall see...
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2016
    Wizard of Oz?
    • CommentAuthorSprocket
    • CommentTimeDec 3rd 2016
    How is this going?
    We just bought a 1960s bungalow so are maybe facing a few similar issues.

    One thing I am wondering about is position of radiators for the GCH. Currently the old panel rads are underneath windows in bedrooms and underneath the bay window in the lounge. This makes full length curtains impractical. What was the original intention with this?

    I'm thinking the place would be a good bit warmer if the rads were on internal walls, away from the windows, and then nice thick interlined full-length curtains installed; but is that likely to lead to condensation problems at the UPVC SUDG windows?
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeDec 3rd 2016 edited
    It'll make it feel a good bit cooler actually.

    As a source of heat, radiators(convectors) create warm air and it rises
    As a "source of cool", windows create cooler air and it sinks

    If a volume of air has a rising component on one side of the room and a sinking component on the other, it will cycle round as though being pumped by a fan, and is creates a draft..

    Now humans, being the damp creatures they are, experience enhanced levels of evaporation from their skin when they sit in a draft of air at X degrees versus still air at X degrees, this makes them feel cooler. Add this to the fact that you're on the floor rarer than the ceiling so you're sitting in the part of the draft that features the cooled air :/

    Putting rads under windows causes the rising warm and sinking cool to clash and funnel out into the room instead

    Tuck your curtains behind the rads, arrange them so they hang over the windowsill, fit triple glazing or opt for an alternative such as thermal blinds?
    This is still in the process of being purchased :-D.
    This has now, after much going round in circles, been purchased.

    So this thread is being trawled up from the Green Underworld, and I have a lot of questions.


    Build date is 1966
    Cavity walls (50mm cavity?). Not insulated cavity. This is free to have done.
    Suspended timber floors - Approx 12" below joists.
    One wet floor in kitchen, which looks like a leak or leaks. Needs a check.
    A lorra lorra airbricks.
    Double glazed but glazing at least 20 years old.
    Some insulation in loft. Top up may be free.
    Hipped roofs on all but that front gable shown in the piccie.
    Back boiler and reads ==> new CH.
    Fuse wire consumer unit ==> replace.
    Kitchen and bathroom need replacement.
    Some damp problems but that seems to be a sinking car port cover.
    A surpsrisingly benign microclimate. Even though it is high, neighbouring properties have eg Yukkas.

    Item 1

    Stripping and checks need to be done first, but a 1966 cavity will not give enough insulation without IWI or EWI.

    I was considering IWI, but looking it strikes me that a bungalow avoids some of the costs that make EWI hard to justify, and since I am doing a full renovation including new DG EWI may be a good plan ... IF I can make it work with the cavity insulation.

    I have one chap coming to quote tomorrow; a local company who say they have been fitting EWI for 25 years. Certified for various systems but their favourite is one called Alumask.

    Does anyone have a view of Alumask?

    Item 2

    What do I need to cover wrt the cavities .. clearly they need sealing at the top, and to deal with penetrations?

    Is there anything else? A link to a source is fine.

    Item 3

    What about the suspended floor. It seems that I can either seal airbricks etc, and/or insulate the suspended floor and make the floor airtight.

    I am not sure on the best way here, and I am still not sure (having read several years of GB debate) about the wisdom of polystyrene beads under a suspended floor, though I might be happier with LECA as a more inert material.

    My plan with IWI would have been an airtight floating floor with perhaps a membrane and 55-75 mm of PIR.

    All thoughts will be most welcome.

    There is a thread with more pictures at Buildhub.


    Last time i was in touch with them Alumasc used to offer phenolic and cork insulation. In most ways they seem similar to a lot of the system providers. They may now do EPS, or they may not. Some say phenolic is more likely to shrink.
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Nick Parsons</cite>Last time i was in touch with them Alumasc used to offer phenolic and cork insulation. In most ways they seem similar to a lot of the system providers. They may now do EPS, or they may not. Some say phenolic is more likely to shrink.</blockquote>

    Thanks NIck. It would be EPS.
    • CommentAuthorjohnuready
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2017
    Hi do you live close to London/Cambridge ? I ask as I finished my project the same as yours and converted a small bungalow to passive house standards and enjoyed a very comfortable life style for the last 2 years. I'm sure I could help you as I went through 3 years of research before starting and completed the project with contract and my labour under my instruction and attention to detail

    No - 200 miles away from London, and I have my contractors in place.
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