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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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  1.  
    Doing the pricing calcs for my barn conversion and the heating system - pellet stove, rads, thermal store, etc is hitting the budget hard. If I divert some of that money into hyperinsulating the roof, and use a bit more hemcrete on the walls, so as to achieve something in the passivehaus region of insulation, will I get away with relatively little solar gain (small roof lights as its a listed building) and some form of low cost electric heating - through the wall heatpump or underfloor matting - any opinions or experience?
  2.  
    Hi,

    It’s a paradox isn’t that as you reduce the heat load by applying passive type methods the non gas or oil heating system soon gets to about £10k+, the less you want the more you pay. A couple of small elec heaters (very low capital cost) can supply all the heat you need (high running cost), I’m not saying that is what you should do, but it makes you think. Have you considered a wood stove? Or, a second hand Rayburn with wood fuel, gravity feed to a thermal store, UFH off of that.

    Cheers, Mike up North
  3.  
    Wet UFH - too much labour costs as we'd have to take up the floor - fit it - the relay the floor, and on the ground floor we'd have to dig out the slab and replace it. wood burning stove may be a possibility as that is what we heat the main house with, but the chimney doesn't help the overall u-value of the building much!

    secondary question - is it cheaper to have an immersion heater, thermal store / water tank using E7, or just use an electric instant heat shower system, when we would only be using the shower in the barn a couple of times in the week?
    •  
      CommentAuthoragu
    • CommentTimeJun 5th 2008
     
    It's important to consider air tightness as well as insulation to get to where you want to be, and that then raises the need to think about MVHR
  4.  
    I'm hoping that the hemcrete will seal the walls, we only then have to seal floor above garage, roof, and two doors... I'm hoping to budget in heat recovery ventilation, if only to get rid of the computer heat in the summer!
  5.  
    Don't have many answers, but a couple of questions...

    hemcrete walls - is that on a timber-frame and does that comply with building reg's?
    What is your floor construction if you're leaving the original how will that comply with building reg's?

    ...just an interested (nosey) amateur...Thanks

    If relation to your question...

    I've been down a similar route to yourself, but discounted the pellet burner at this stage as overkill (and I'm somewhat put-off by what I hear about sourcing pellets) - have you considered a simpler (and cheaper) multi-fuel burner instead?
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     
    Hemcrete will be added to 500mm stone and rubble walls... not yet asked building regs people if they like it, but I'm hoping to present enough evidence that they can't refuse. Floor is a concrete slab of unknown construction, but not very old so we are assuming it has some insulation value at least. As 2/3rds of the ground floor is garage and will be outside the insulation envelope, heat loss through the floor isn't too worrisome.
    I'm hoping that the high levels of insulation (I'm currently able to get an overall u-value of 0.21) and incidental heat (computers!) will provide background heat, and then we may look to electricity for top up heat, as its cheap to install, and renewable (from right source).
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