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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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  1.  
    My Mum has a timber frame bungalow with a brick skin. The wall is an insulated 4"x2" timber frame with about a 3" cavity in between that and the brick skin. There is a vapour barrier behind the plasterboard internally but no service void. Standard 1980s contruction when they first started with timber frame.

    I turned up today to find a neighbouring house (same construction) having its cavity filled with White Wool. Apparently this is now thought to be OK (according to the installer I spoke to) and was attracting grant funding. I noticed they were also pointing up the weep holes at the bottom of the brick wall.

    Is this is a good or bad idea?
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2008 edited
     
    Bad.
    No guarantee what the original membranes are or whether they are intact.
    No guarantee that water cannot either condense within the construction or track accross from the external skin.
    Potentially a disaster waiting to happen
  2.  
    Sounds like a recipe for disaster. The purpose of the brick is to act as a rainscreen and allow moisture/water to run down the inside rather than get through to the wood frame. If there's a breathable air barrier (such as tyvek) outside the timber frame, it won't work as designed if it's touching insulation through which moisture can pass from the brick. And if the weep holes are sealed up, if will be even worse!!!

    Paul in Montreal
    • CommentAuthorStuartB
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2008
     
    So is it ok to fill cavities in brick built homes but not wooden framed ones whatever the membranes used?
  3.  
    The membrane is blue polythene just under the plasterboard. Nothing on the other side of the insulation I don't think (had to remove an old boiler flue a couple of years back so I could see inside the wall construction), certainly not Tyvek.

    In theory, if the vapour barrier was intact there should be no problem with interstitial condensation and if the pointing was in good order then no moisture penetration from outside. However, I do agree it seems dodgy. They're issuing 25 year CIGA guarantees on the work though....

    I think there is a interstitial condensation risk with block and brick filled cavity construction where no vapour barrier is used on the inside (e.g. foil backed plasterboard). Why don't we worry abut this?
  4.  
    My understanding is that in a masonry structure the materials are essentially inorganic and durable (I think AD Part F or C mentions this). I suppose an argument could be made that any moisture would condense on the inner face of the masonry skin affecting only masonry and the new fill insulant, the former gets wet and dries out again in the sun the latter it designed to not degrade whilst maintaining a degree of moisture.

    But this moisture could wick back to the frame or the interstitial condensation could form not quite where expected for eg at jambs etc... and without any certainty about the performance or indeed presence of a breather membrane then bad news ensues... not sure about this one at all... EST best practice guides...?

    J
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2008 edited
     
    Posted By: StuartBSo is it ok to fill cavities in brick built homes but not wooden framed ones whatever the membranes used?


    Sometimes it is not OK to fill brick built cavity walls either.[IMO]

    Depends on several factors:
    The level of exposure to bad weather.
    The porosity of the external brick/stone/block/render etc.
    Whether there are inbuilt timbers such as floor joists.
    etc
  5.  
    I wonder just how good these guarantees are?

    Once upon a time we thought endownments would pay out
    Once upon a time we thought private pensions would be worth having
    Once upon a time we thought banks could not go bust
    ....:bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2008
     
    Filling external wall cavities with insulation on a timber frame is asking for trouble.

    DO NOT DO IT.

    I don't give a monkies what anyone says, be it installer, manufacturer or 'expert' (excluding me of course ;) ) It should never be done retrospectively.

    There are designs that allow no external wall cavity with insulaiton or some form of insulation on the outside of the frame, but just banging insulation into the external wall cavtiy willy nilly is wrong wrong wrong.

    And pointing up the weep holes has just banged the last nail into that houses coffin.

    Depending on circumstances, I suspect big problems for that house within the next 10 years. Within a few more years i suspect that the house will be a total loss or require major major repair work.

    People just don't understand and really should learn not to medal with stuff they don'y understand.

    *rant over* Timber
  6.  
    Good rant:thumbup:
  7.  
    The limit on the guarantee is £10k, which is bit light if you need to rebuild a rotten house. I've emailed the insulation manufacturer to see what their take on it is.
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2008
     
    Mike - Thanks.

    Wind driven rain penetration and condensation will be the problems. I suspect that actually wind driven rain penetration will be main issue. Any penetration arround windows will likely result in wet insulation which can transmit the moisture across to the frame and keep it damp. This in turn will cause the sheathing to rot and compromise the structural integrity of the frame.

    Moisture from the brick may also 'wick' across the insulation although less likely.

    All timber frame must have at least 500 mm 2 ventillation opening per 1000 mm of linear wall run. blocking the drainage and vent holes up will also not allow any moisture or moist air in the cavity to escape.

    Timber
    • CommentAuthorMarkH
    • CommentTimeDec 10th 2008
     
    For our 1970s timber frame we were advised very strongly (by a number of experts) not to fill the cavity between the brick and the frame. Instead we had Warmcel blown behind the plasterboard - very messy all that plaster dust in the house, but its certainkly made a difference.
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