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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorGREGORIAN
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2009 edited
     
    Hi, could anyone please advise me? I'm renovating a 1960s bungalow and want to insulate the cavity walls, which are brick and block and open at the top. My builder suggests we simply pour polystyrene beads into the cavity via the open top. He has seen this done elsewhere. Is this advisable? Looking through the web sites of some installers, and a couple of other sites ('simplify DIY' and 'homeenergysaver'), it seems the beads are normally injected under pressure and mixed with an adhesive at injection.

    I expect it would be a lot cheaper just to pour them in loose and we think it would prevent rats using the cavity because loose beads would block their runs. Are there any disadvantages, though (e.g. less effective as an insulator, may leak out of any holes, may settle, may not fill all crevices)? My builder was also called to repair a damp wall. When he opened the cavity, it was filled with rockwool but ants had carried soil up into the rockwool and built a nest that bridged the cavity so water passed across. He believes loose beads would also prevent that. Grateful, for any advice. Best regards, Ian
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2009 edited
     
    Perhaps see..
    http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2806&page=1

    PS: Keep polystyrene away from wiring as it can react with PVC in the cables insulation. It's one reason why the leads supplied with electrical appliances are normally in plastic bags.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2009
     
    Proper professional job is best -- the glue is important also the beads will settle if you loose fill leaving voids. Usually I say DIY but not on this one.
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeFeb 5th 2009
     
    I had my victorian semi insulated about 20 yearsd ago. Very satisfied. Points arising:- The contractors, sprayed a diluted water PVA glue mix along with the beads, only partially worked in that the beads are very loose in parts. The beads are not injected as such , rather introduced into a very big diameter, slowly revolving fan, so they could be blown out of the lorry and up a 1 1/2" hose to the top of a ladder. Loads of holes were drilled in our red bricks to inject the beads but the lads made an excellent job in dying cement and filling the holes in. Just tipping the beads into the cavity would'nt fill the area under a window. All air ricks and the tops of the cavities must sleeved (glass fibre stuffed round the edges to stop the beads falling out.
    Frank
    • CommentAuthorGREGORIAN
    • CommentTimeFeb 5th 2009
     
    Thank you all for your helpful comments. CWatters, I had read the other discussion, thanks - it seems to suggest that Ecobeads are best. However, does the problem of reaction between PVC and Polysterene also apply to the professionally injected polystyrene beeads, with adhesive? Many thanks, Ian.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 5th 2009
     
    Yes but there should not be any cables in your cavities so there should not be a problem.
    • CommentAuthorSimonH
    • CommentTimeFeb 5th 2009 edited
     
    Oops stuck this on the foam thread as i was reading at the same time...

    Definetely don't do pour your own beads...

    a) it won't have a 25 year CIGA guarantee (which can be a godsend if your walls were crap anyway!)
    b) it will mean more labour for you
    c) it will cost more than the discounted grant price - especially if you include your labour costs. You should be able to get them for less than £200 - the bigger the house the bigger the CO2 saving and hence CERT grant - so cost to the customer is usually constant.
    d) You're not guaranteed to fill all the cavities yourself.

    Go to this page http://www.bbacerts.co.uk/query3.html

    And take a look at the drill patterns and on the left hand side click walls/cladding, then blown in cavity wall insulation. Click the swirly arrow to download the certificates.

    e.g. to save you time these are the first 3 examples...

    http://www.bbacerts.co.uk/certs/17/1720i2_web.pdf (page 7)
    http://www.bbacerts.co.uk/certs/32/3228i3_web.pdf (page 7)
    http://www.bbacerts.co.uk/certs/37/3706i2_web.pdf (page 7)

    You'll notive the drill pattern always includes areas under the windows, and some extra at ground floor level, with a larger amount at the eaves to make sure it get topped up properly. If you drop them in at the top, you'll get holes under windows, under wall ties, and at the corners of the building

    PS. I'm not a cavity salesman or installer - but did my reasearch when I wanted mine doing. I do know someone in the trade. She also told me her worst day - was when a potential customer said "what? £150!!?? - I could get a flight to Spain for that!" Doh!.

    Simon
    • CommentAuthorsaxony
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2009
     
    Our cavity walls were once insulated with loose fill polystyrene beads. It is long past its guarantee and has settled badly. There was no glue and any work requiring holes in the walls releases quantities of beads. We've been told the only way to redo the insulation is to go to the expense of having everything vacuumed out first. Is there a way round this?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2009
     
    Vacuum it all out yourself then get a grant!
    • CommentAuthorsaxony
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2009
     
    Any advice as to appropriate equipment and technique? Don't think the Dyson would be up to it ; )
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2009
     
    Any vacuum with a large drum/container to collect in or even a garden vac.
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2009
     
    Where we had some settlement, I topped the beads up myself. Bought a bag of beads, put an old vacuum cleaner (set to blow) tube into the bag. Stuffed another flexible tube into the bag. tape neck of bag up tight. Switch on old vacuum, bag inflates and blows air and beads out the spare tube. Worked pretty well but be careful of an explosion of beads out of the neck of the bag if things go awry.
    Frank
  1.  
    My house was built in 1989 and allegedly had insulation put into the cavity walls when they were being built. Recently, I had a shower put into the bathroom which required a hole in the inner, thermal block wall to make space for the shower unit. Imagine my surprise when this revealed that (in this area at least) there is no insulation material in the cavity wall.
    Two Questions :
    1. How can I find out if there are other areas missing this foam board? (or whatever it is that they are supposed to have put into the cavity)
    2. If there is piecemeal presence of this insulation, can I have wall insulation put in, and, if so, what's the best product for this situation? (rockwool, polystyrene beads, foam)?
    Thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 17th 2009
     
    polystyrene beads injected with glue on them, even better, get shiny ones if you can.
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