Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.

The AECB accepts no responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in the content of this site. Views given in posts are not necessarily the views of the AECB.



    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2009
     
    I have taken up my office chipboard floor in order to replace it with floorboards. I'd also like to insulate the floor. The chipboard was nailed to 125mm deep joists which were resting on a poured concrete base with DPC below. The office was built in the 1970s and I don't think there will be any insulation under the concrete. There are no air vents in the cavity walls. I was planning on using nails to support 100mm Kingspan between the joists, leaving a 25mm air gap below. Is this the best idea or are there better/cheaper alternatives?
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2009 edited
     
    Okay - this is Irish B Regs guidance which may vary from UK

    http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1642,en.pdf

    See diagram 7 on page 18 - the detailing is all about keeping the suspended timber well clear of the concrete sub floor below - the void below must be vented .

    Your timbers are lying directly on the concrete subfloor ? I would not place any insulation here for fear of causing condensation which will lead to rotting of your structural floor timbers .

    Is placing a 75mm dense insulation + 75mm screed over an option for you ? ( after stripping all joists out )
    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2009
     
    The timbers have lain on the concrete floor for almost 40 years and there is no evidence of rot. I assume the damp proof membrane under the concrete has prevented moisture being able to reach the joists. I want to stop heat escaping through the floor. Are you saying that if I now insulate between the joists I will increase the chances of condensation? Why is that?

    I remember labouring for my builder brother when he converted our barn a few years back - if memory serves he dug out the earth floors, put down compressed type 1, with sand on top, laid damp proof sheeting on that, then a concrete pour, then battened the floor with kingspan between the joists and floorboards over that. Everything was passed by building control.
    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2009
     
    Sorry meant to add this - Kingspan seem to suggest there's method in my madness (page 3 figure 9):

    http://www.insulation.kingspan.com/uk/pdf/k3.pdf
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2009 edited
     
    At present the chipboard is offering little thermal resistance - so all the fabric below is gradually absorbing your internal heat energy . ( You want to put a stop to that of course) . Any condensation that periodically arises can disperse across all that open void space .

    If you introduce insulation now - the concrete will be thermally separated from the internal space . It will get cold
    Condensation will tend to arise more frequently and in greater amounts . The insulation being vapor resistant will leave only the timbers to cope .

    I would ask Kingspan for a project specific condensation risk analysis - sent to you in pfd format - before relying on the detail link above
    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2009
     
    What if I laid 75mm Kingspan on the concrete, taped the joins then put a wooden frame over that and nail the boards to the wooden frame - would that be better?
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2009
     
    Not sure about Kingspan - but this product is BBA certified - see section 3 - its gives pretty detailed advice . you can float a timber floor onto it - no battens ( except at doorways )

    http://www.vencel.co.uk/assets/bba/1796_web.pdf
    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2009
     
    OK, the jablite and floating floor route looks promising - could I lay jablite, then a chipboard floating floor, then boards nailed on top of that? (I'm trying to think of the best way to get the 125mm final floor height I need).
    • CommentAuthormark_s
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2009
     
    I'm planing a similar thing in one of our rooms.

    existing situation is a earth sub floor. I am intending a layer of hardcore, then a layer of geotex or similar. Sand blinding then dpm. Then insulation. On top of the insulation a layer of ply with battens which will support the floorboards.
    I intend that the water and electricity pipes will run between the battens and then I'll stick in rockwool type stuff.
    • CommentAuthormark_s
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2009
     
    I was advised ply rather than chipboard because chipboard is more likely to be squeaky apparently.
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press