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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorFred56
    • CommentTimeAug 2nd 2010
     
    Does anyone have any experience of exploiting ground gas? In this case it is 95% methane with bit of other stuff, mainly nitrogen, no CO2 which is odd, no subscript either. I have no idea how much there is of it down there so I'd still be getting mains gas as primary fuel. So far all I have a bore hole with a capped pipe running to the methane pocket 35m down. I'm designing the house and having fantasies about CHP.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 2nd 2010
     
    Dream on! may be you could sell it to the gas grid?

    I doubt that there would be much there but you could try using it for cooking? how did it form? could it leak into the house? you sure it is not argon or water gas?
    • CommentAuthorFred56
    • CommentTimeAug 2nd 2010
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>Dream on! may be you could sell it to the gas grid?

    I doubt that there would be much there but you could try using it for cooking? how did it form? could it leak into the house? you sure it is not argon or water gas?</blockquote>

    Hi Tony. I'm confident about the composition, it's been tested in a lab and it's 95% methane. As I said, I don't know how much is down there. Tests were carried out for some weeks which did not reveal any leaching to the surface. As a precaution we will be installing a ground gas membrane in the same way we've done in radon affected locations. I've no idea how it formed, the land in the area does have voids casued by limestone and gypsum. There are also peat deposits but peat bed methane is meant to carry a large CO2 component.

    The reason I asked was if anyone knew how to go about filtering and regulating it to make it useful for say, running a generator or micro chp. I don't know much about gas and I thought someone here might have some experience. The methods used for recovering landfill gas must be similar and that's fairly common. I've tried googling but did not find much at all. It has been done because I recall a conversation with a surveyor from one of the utilities talking about a business he'd visited that was exploiting ground gas.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 2nd 2010
     
    cap the bore hole and insert a pipe with a pressure regulator and you are away -- likely will need to gas safed.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeAug 3rd 2010
     
    If it's 95% methane and doesn't contain other nasties from landfill I suspect you'd be OK to run it directly into a spark ignition engine or a diesel engine via some kind of spark arresting device.

    If you only have a small flow of gas then use a small CHP unit. Even a small generator idling at 500W will provide all of the electrical energy a typical house needs, and most of the heating. The trick is to find such a small unit that also has water cooling...
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeAug 5th 2010
     
    There are a small number of houses fed 'mains' gas f.o.c. from the methane that comes from a landfill site in Cheshire.
    I don't know the composition, but the house that I saw runs a standard looking WB boiler.

    Go for it! :wink:
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeAug 5th 2010
     
    Posted By: evanThe trick is to find such a small unit that also has water cooling...

    A small motorcycle engine could be adapted I am sure. I have the same problem finding a suitable engine for a narrow boat. All I need is about a 10kW (about 13 BHP) water cooled, 4 stroke unit. Any ideas anyone?
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeAug 6th 2010
     
    Well motorbike engines are normally air or oil cooled so no good.

    I would suggest looking at a small car engine, like a little 1ltr 3cyl vauxhall engine turning a large generator. It should be nice and quiet and ecomonical and have about 50 - 60 hp so should be able to give a very large output if needed.

    Any smaller and I would suggest that it would not be able to provide enough heat to heating the water.

    Timber
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeAug 6th 2010
     
    Posted By: Timber50 - 60 hp so should be able to give a very large output if nee


    And that is really the problem. Ideally would be after an engine that could deliver about 10kWe and 20kWh. That way there is enough to supply the whole boat with electrical power and heat, maybe an evaporator to distil fresh water too. A bit of storage (batteries) will probably be included so that at night it does not have to have the engine running, depends how cold it is though. So similar problems to a house, just higher heat load.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 6th 2010
     
    Reliant Robin? 750cc 32bhp http://www.3wheelers.com/bnplastics/history.html. Very light, all-aluminium, old favourite of racers, still plenty about.
    Or there must be many small stationary or dumper truck single cyl water cooled single speed engines, Petter or similar. Surely, any boat engine? Water-cooled outboard motor?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeAug 6th 2010
     
    As Tom says, how about adapting an outboard? The Honda 4-strokes are quiet and reliable and have models in the right power range.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeAug 6th 2010
     
    Brilliant

    Old outboard, sometimes it is easy to think too far out of the box. Thanks.
    • CommentAuthorbarney
    • CommentTimeAug 6th 2010 edited
     
    I guess the real problem is the significant differences between the heat demand and the electrical consumption of the average house - if there wasn't this difference then we'd all have a gas CHP at home I guess

    Regards

    Barney
    • CommentAuthorFred56
    • CommentTimeAug 6th 2010
     
    Thanks, some great ideas there and you've elevated my enthusiasm for the project. I've been mulling this one over for months. I'm aiming for highly insulated house so hope the heating demand is very low. I've been watching micro CHP for the past few years and every time one is promoted it disappears after a while - Disenco for example - or the launch dates get rolled back. I was a whiz with engines in days of Triumphs and BSAs - you just had to be. Now, a nice quiet understressed water cooled engine, and old Goldwing perhaps. Or, anyone got a steam engine? There used to a chap called Mallinson who made little marine steam engines, met him in the 80s. You see what you've done - I'm getting obsessed.
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeAug 6th 2010 edited
     
    Posted By: SteamyTea
    Posted By: Timber50 - 60 hp so should be able to give a very large output if nee


    And that is really the problem. Ideally would be after an engine that could deliver about 10kWe and 20kWh. That way there is enough to supply the whole boat with electrical power and heat, maybe an evaporator to distil fresh water too. A bit of storage (batteries) will probably be included so that at night it does not have to have the engine running, depends how cold it is though. So similar problems to a house, just higher heat load.


    The fuel consumption per bhp.hr of the engine - whatever it is - will most probably be highest (edit - oops I meant lowest) at well below the maximum power. So a 50 bhp engine might well be worth considering, running at lowish revs and part throttle to deliver the 13 bhp you mentioned.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeAug 7th 2010
     
    Mike

    Yes I know, that was really why I am after a small engine that produces maximum torque at 3000 RMP (and hence max efficiency), and about 10kW and is watercooled and petrol/methane. Power can then be controlled with the fuel/air mixture and throttling to suit the load. One problem of using a car engine is that there is a need to secondary cool with air around the block/exhaust. As I have a couple of free hours today I shall go to the boat yard and see about small outboards and try and work out how easily they can be modified. I did think about the engine in my Suzuki car, it is about 50 BHP but at high revs, so would be noisy and as it is a 3 cylinder unit it vibrates a fair bit, okay when cruising but a bit too rough when only heat and power is needed.
    I also wondered about using a heat exchanger from the exhaust, but then remembered my old VW Beetle and what happened when they went faulty, so avoiding that but does give one an opportunity to distil from seawater.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 7th 2010
     
    Surely not - full throttle at peak-torque revs must be optimum. If intended to run only one speed, rather than with output maintained over a wide speed range, then great efficiency gains by tuning the inlet/exhaust 'organ pipes' and cam profile, even if it needs spinning up to that speed before it'll start.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeAug 7th 2010
     
    Tom
    In a way you are right, but there is a limit to what can be easily done on an engine, hence the reason for a small engine rather than a large one running below par.
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeAug 8th 2010 edited
     
    I mis-spoke on my previous post, now edited. My thought actually was that the specific fuel consumption of an engine would be LOWESTat well below max power, but I was wrong. Two wrongs making a right? Tom is correct that max throttle at max torque generally gives the best result for a petrol engine. A bit different for a diesel, but not far off.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeAug 10th 2010 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertomReliant Robin? 750cc 32bhphttp://www.3wheelers.com/bnplastics/history.html." >http://www.3wheelers.com/bnplastics/history.html.Very light, all-aluminium, old favourite of racers, still plenty about.
    Or there must be many small stationary or dumper truck single cyl water cooled single speed engines, Petter or similar. Surely, any boat engine? Water-cooled outboard motor?


    Hmm.
    Speaking as an ex-reliant owner, who has rebuilt the engines more than once, I strongly don't recommend it (or any car engine of that vintage) as a marine engine. A great engine in its day (that day being some time in the 1960s) it is really not the right thing for the job. It has no emissions controls so will produce awful fumes for you and fellow canal users. Having points and a carburettor it can't be relied upon to start on the button, not what you want half way through a lock.
    And most importantly for a marine engine, they need a complete rebuild every 60,000 miles or so, which isn't very many hours.

    Compare that to a modern small car engine - for example the 1.2 ecotec unit in my partner's Corsa (on LPG) has done 150,000 miles with only oil and filter changes, and still has very low emissions and no oil usage.

    I wouldn't recommend motorbike engines for many of the same reasons. Small outboard motors may suffer from the same problems - they are optimised for high performance in a small package rather than longevity, and tend to be noisy, high revving and polluting.

    Old or primitive new stationary diesels are also pretty horrible, smoke and noise wise.

    -------------------
    So what's the answer!?

    Personally I would do the following: fit a simple electric drive to the boat (10kw is trivial) and a few cheap lead acid batteries. Install some solar panels on top of the boat, with a solar regulator. For low speed and short distances, use the battery. The battery also runs an inverter for your house loads.

    For longer distances fire up a small, modern, refined genset (plenty of choice here, including water cooled) to maintain charge and provide some heating. I would perhaps choose a a "silent" water cooled 4kW Honda RV generator, running on propane.

    For times when you need heat but not propulsion, fit a fuel powered heater (petrol, propane or diesel), do not waste the engine life by running it just for heat (it will be less economical to do that than use a boiler anyway).

    Consider Propane in orange cylinders for the energy source. Both the gen-set and the cooking and heating can use this, and it may be safer, cheaper, cleaner and less trouble than petrol.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeAug 10th 2010
     
    Evan

    Your solution was my initial thinking, a narrowboat only has to do 4 knots so 10kW is ample. What I was really hoping to find (mentioned it on a different thread) was a small genset what was water cooled. Noise is one of the things I am hoping to reduce, but also want convenience/reliability.
    I agree about the Reliant engine. I ran a factory near Tamworth and half my workforce were ex Reliant people, their quality of work was dreadful, so surprised you only had to rebuild it several times, big end bearings were fragile I seem to remember.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeAug 10th 2010
     
    Ah, I assumed you were needing shaft power as well, but we are on the same page. What sort of electric drive are you considering, out of interest?

    And are you sure you even need 10kW continuous? I have a feeling it might only take 2 or 3kW for continuous propulsion at such a low speed (thus the generator can be small), though of course you should size the electric drive to cope with the peak power needed for maneuvering.

    Anyway, a quiet genset that is water cooled: for gas/petrol look at a Honda or Onan "RV generator". Or, the smaller Kubota diesel models.

    A modern car petrol engine wouldn't be a bad choice, but will be heavier and trickier to install and connect to a suitable generator (please don't be tempted to use automotive alternators!). I also feel it will be quite a bit less fuel efficient which might be a factor if you drive it in the summer much.


    Important factor: will the boat normally be driving when it's occupied or is it mainly stationary, like a house boat?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 10th 2010 edited
     
    The Reliant design evolved into a 'modern' (by 60s/70s standard) 3-bearing aluminium ohv, from the original 2-bearing iron sv Austin 7 of 1923. It can still be tuned into a great race engine for likes of ultra-light 750MC, trialling etc.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeAug 10th 2010
     
    Posted By: fostertomThe Reliant design evolved into a 'modern' (by 60s/70s standard) 3-bearing aluminium ohv, from the original 2-bearing iron sv Austin 7 of 1923.


    Indeed, and it gave very good power to weight ratio and economy for the time. Widely used in portable fire pumps as well, which could be easily carried by two men.

    However, completely inappropriate as a power source these days, it just isn't clean enough (and this is the green building forum, right?!)

    If you were a determined enthusiast you could get away with it if you added LPG with closed loop control, a catalyser, electronic points and so on, but by the time you've done all that you may as well have used a more modern engine in the first place, which has the added advantage of also being reliable :)
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 10th 2010
     
    Posted By: evanthe added advantage of also being reliable :)
    rather than reliant?
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeAug 10th 2010
     
    Ah, the difference between marketing and facts... %-P

    Rgds

    Damon
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