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Housing - Renovation: Insulation queries

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    1. Our ground floor living room faces NE and is generally pretty cold. We have a largish double glazed bay window with a tiled roof immediatley above it, internal dimensions 305 cm x 70 cm. I am pretty certain there is no insualtion in the roof void. It seems the easiest way to remedy this is to attach some sort of insulating board to the room ceiling, which I think is constructed using a ply or block board. Question is, which would be the best material to use?

    2. The same bay has original quarry tiles for the internal window sill (Our external walls are nine inch brick). In the winter the tiles become very cold and it has been suggested to me that we remove these and replace with a 'warmer' material. I'd quite like to keep the tiles, so is there a material I could position underneath them (after removing of course)to stop or reduce their radiating effects?

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 14th 2010
     
    Why not fill the bay window roof void with insulation?

    Sounds like the walls need insulating if they are uninsulated brick walls -- my favourite would be external insulation.

    Ceiling use a sheet of insulation 25, 30 or 50 or 75mm thick , thicker the better and underline with plasterboard or wood.

    Under the sill you could add pur or xps insulation but that is the least of your problems.
  3.  
    Thanks Tony

    If I fill the void with insulation, that means a big mess on the inside or removing the tiles from the outside. I was hoping to 'fix' the problem with the minimum of disturbance. Also the sheet insualtion + plasterboard needs to be relatively thin to avoid coming below the top of the windows - got about 30mm - 35mm in total to play with.

    Sorry what's pur or xps insulation?

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 14th 2010
     
    pur = polyurathane probably with foil on it -- xps = extruded polystyrene
    • CommentAuthorSaint
    • CommentTimeAug 15th 2010 edited
     
    Tim, the thinnest but most efficient thermal board i.e. insulation bonded to gypsum or similar would have aerogel as the insulation. 10mm aerogel would take a 9" solid wall U value from 2.1 W/m2K down to 0.8, 20mm down to 0.51. You'd then have to allow 10mm or so for the gypsum, Fermacell or magnesium board. Brand names are Spacetherm P, PP or F depending on whether the facing board is plasterboard, plasterboard + ply or Fermacell.
    Alternatively there is MagnaLine SuperSlim (aerogel bonded to 9mm magnesium silicate).
    An aerogel laminate is the most expensive but thinnest solution.
    Next would come phenolic laminates. the phenolic would have to be about 66% thicker to equate to the aerogel performance, the price is far less though Then would come PIR say 75% thicker than aerogel but less expensive than the phenolic. It all comes down to what space you have available and how much you value you place on saving space
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeAug 18th 2010
     
    We have a bay window in front room with a flat roof on it. Turned out to have no insulation in the (40cm deep) void. Nor in the walls (~25mm cavity), and the wind came in underneat the window and through the cavity. Trying to fix this by just glueing insulation to the ceiling would have been a poor solution as it would not be possible to fix airtightness. Do it properly and make a mess. This will allow you bung up big holes, put in a decent amount of insulation, and most important fix airtightness, which is probably most important in terms of improving the 'feel' of the area. We insulated the roof void, put in a vapour and airtight layer at plasterboard ceiling level, sealed window with tescon tape and polythene sheet and insalled 100mm PUR internal insulation (25mm on the reveals) . The whole (large) room is _much_ warmer and more pleasant (presumably because the drafts have gone) after this work. Even just the roof insulation made a noticeable differnce. The bay window is a fairly small fraction of the external wall but it was clearly responsible for a disproportionate amount of the heat loss.
  7.  
    Well we took the plunge and pulled down the bay ceiling - in fact it was lath and plaster (what fun) and so we now have a void to fill (did I say it was a pitched roof). Plan to use 100mm PUR between the joists. Looks like there is also an opportunity to insulate the 'outside' house wall within the roof void, if that make sense. Should I / can I use the same material on this section of the wall? Can it be glued or does it need a mechanical fixing?

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2010
     
    After fitting the PUR and foaming any gaps you should fit a vapour barrier before you put the ceiling back. This is to stop and warm humid air from the room getting through tiny cracks to the cold space above the insulation where it may condense. The barrer it just a plastic sheet with edges stapled and taped or possibly the foil on foil backed plasterboard.
    • CommentAuthorBry Lynas
    • CommentTimeSep 25th 2011
     
    MagnaLine SuperSlim sounds just what I need for my internal walls in an old stone house with small rooms But where can I get it??? Searching the web yields nothing except some YouTube videos of installation and this discussion group. Anyone know the company please?
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      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeSep 25th 2011 edited
     
    I am about to formally order some tomorrow (I believe that they've been making the right thickness up for me over the weekend at the factory) from enviroformsolutions.com.

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeSep 26th 2011
     
    I like the look of those Magnaline jointing strips and special pieces for window reveals.

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