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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Hi all,
    I am interested in replacing our current “hole in the wall” ventilation in our bathroom with a ‘single room heat recovery ventilator’ - the type that would just fit through the wall, using the current hole, with little modification. I am wondering if anyone has any experience of these? I have only found one supplier that seems to be doing them for about £250, which seems quite pricy. Can anyone recommend any other suppliers/ types?

    I also had a thought that I might be able to run this off a fairly small and simple 12V solar charged battery (the bathroom is upstairs and the bat could sit above in the loft)? Any advice on either fronts most welcome. Thanks,
    Samantha
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 4th 2007
     
    Could be expensive and condensation would collect in it. May be cheaper (sadly) to throw away some heat

    12v fans are easy to come by

    You could make you own heat recovery system with a wooden box a plastic tray and some cling film and two fans.
  2.  
    Thanks Tony, from what I know I agree with the expense! But why would condensation collect in it? From what I know, they are mounted in a similar way to a regular extractor fan- on a very slight slope so condensation drips out? Or is this only the case for some designs, or have I overlooked something completely?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2007
     
    That assessment is correct.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2007
     
    I was thinking of condensation being a problem if you made a diy heat exchanger.
  3.  
    ahh, I see - thanks tony.
    Though it is expensive, I am still edging towards getting one. It seems a tad annoying to goto a lot of effort to get cavity wall insulation, draught proof, and double glaze (as we have done), and then pump the heat out in an uncontrolled fashion from out upstairs bathroom.
    Is there anyone here that has used these single room units?
    Thanks.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2007
     
    I have done several in doctors waiting rooms.
  4.  
    Hi,

    Havent used one (yet), but have a look at Kair/Kiltox KHRV150 eco and Vent Axia HR25. You are right they are pricey. But the vent axia was much less than the Kair. Check the volume flowrates though as they are not that great, particularly if you have to shift x lit/min or so-many room volumes from a bathroom/utility room to meet regulations.

    Cheers
    • CommentAuthorken davis
    • CommentTimeOct 9th 2007
     
    i have installed both baxi and vent-axia types, both ok, but v-a quieter, easy to install and settings adjustable. mine are both 12v but with mains connections.
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeOct 9th 2007
     
    Ken what is the model number of your gismo?. I have just searched the Vent-axia site to find a heat recovery fan system and the model is a " 42 64 46", its huge ( over a metre long) and I can't find a web price for it.
    Frank
    • CommentAuthordancing_sam
    • CommentTimeOct 11th 2007 edited
     
    Thanks everyone,

    Thoughts so far on the three I have looked at (am i missing any others?):

    The Silavent Energex -
    Price: £70 – but need to check – I think this is the single speed version, and the dual speed could be quite a bit more pricy?
    Motor: 12V AC.
    Extraction rates: Low 22m³/h
    High 70m³/h
    Power consumption: Low 15W
    High 40W
    dBA 15 - 35
    Input: 240V AC or 12V AC S.E.L.V.
    Notes: Seems to be the cheapest, though I still need to track down a supplier and check. Website does not provide very good data to compare the efficiency of the heat exchanger. Sounds like the humidity controller does not work well and is not adjustable.
    Link: http://www.silavent.co.uk/products/heat_recovery/energex-technical.asp


    Kair Heat Recovery Ventilator
    Price: £330
    Motor: 12V AC
    Extraction rates: Low 19m³/h
    High 38m³/h
    Power consumption: Low 9W
    High 46W
    dBA 21 - 45
    Input: 240V AC which is transformed down to 12V AC in the separate humidistat control box.
    Notes: The most expensive – though it seems like a good idea to have a separate/remote humidistat/control, so it is not measuring the humidity right next to the extractor fan (incoming and outgoing air).
    Link: http://www.kiltox.co.uk/products/hrv.htm



    Vent-axia HR25
    Price: £227
    Motor: 24V DC
    Extraction rates: Low 15.7m³/h
    High 54.6m³/h
    Power consumption: Low 1.9W
    High 24.1W
    dBA 17 - 49
    Input: 240V AC and possibly 24V DC
    Notes: Seems to be the most power efficient, and hopefully will take a 24V DC battery input (am enquiring now). Middle price (though still expensive). Humidity control is adjustable, and can override with manual control (I think – can anyone confirm?). Might be the best option for us as we are keen on powering it with solar – would be no loss of energy from any step down transforming or inverters.
    Link: http://www.vent-axia.com/products/vacas/hr25.asp
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeOct 12th 2007
     
    Thanks for the websites. I'll digest the info later on, but I noticed one claimed " UP TO 86% EFFICIENCY",Oh yeh, trouble is they don't say what is 86% efficient or under what conditions.
    Frank
    •  
      CommentAuthorted
    • CommentTimeOct 14th 2007
     
    Make sure that the fan has the appropriate IP rating for the zone that it will be located in the bathroom.
  5.  
    Chuckey, I agree completely, the figure ‘up to 86%’ is a tad abstract. One question about the ventaxia for anyone that has experience of it - what is the wind protection like. My worry is that the extraction rates it quoted are when there is no pressure differential between the inside and the outside. If the wind is blowing onto the wall the fan could be completely overwhelmed?? - even on boost which is only 25W? If the wind blowing the other way and is sucking the air out of the wall it's even possible that the fan could impede the flow of the air! And
    cost us electricity doing it? It does say it comes with a weather cowl - but is this effective? I would hope that on a device of this price this wouldn’t be a problem, but can anyone here make me less nervous about this?

    Many thanks,
    Bongo.
    •  
      CommentAuthorted
    • CommentTimeOct 15th 2007
     
    From the spec I've read the 'upto 86%' referred to the amount of heat being recovered - e.g. if the exhaust air temp was 25C then the incoming air would be heated by upto 21.5C. I think the key word, though, is 'upto'.
    • CommentAuthorSid_Kumar
    • CommentTimeDec 25th 2007
     
    Hi All, I am interested to install one of the Heat Recovering uniit in the 2nd bed room which got more condensation. Already had a survey and suggested by one to get Kair KHRV150 which is expensive. I found vent-axia's HR25 lot cheaper but appreciate comments by anyone who installed and using it. I am also encouraged by Ken Davis's comments that he installed both and found Vent-axia quieter. Any updates and or recommendations please.
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeDec 26th 2007
     
    " From the spec I've read the 'upto 86%' referred to the amount of heat being recovered - e.g. if the exhaust air temp was 25C then the incoming air would be heated by upto 21.5C. I think the key word, though, is 'upto". I think this is over simplistic, it all depends on the outside temperature. For instance if the outside temperature is -5 deg C, then the excess of heat in the internal air is 25 +5 = 30 deg C. So recovering 86% would give us 25.8, subtracting the -5, would give an incoming air temperature of 20.8, a small error compared to your method. If the outside temperature was +5, then the excess would be 20 so the incoming air temp would be 20 X .86 +5 = 22.2 deg.
    What I suspect is that the 86% recovery is at a very modest temperature differential, in to out of say 5 degs. When the differential increases above this, because of the thermal resistance of the plastic heat exchanger and its limited size, the hot air can't transfer its heat to the incoming (cold) air at one end and at the other end the cold air can't pick up heat from the exausted (hot) air. Its a shame that the efficiiency is not stated at a working temperature diffential of some thing that is relevant, say a internal 20 deg, external zero deg C, or 20 deg C. This also catches any potential icing problems.
    One other point is that the water content in the air carries an appreciable amount of heat energy, so cooling wet air releases more "heat" then cooling dry air. This added heat due to the water content is called latent heat. The heat in the air alone is called sensible heat. So a good spec would quote sensible heat recovery and latent heat recovery. Think of the moisture content of the shower room air!
    Frank
  6.  
    I'd always thought that an MHRV of 86% efficiency would warm incoming air to 86% of the average of indoor and outdoor temperature. If it's 0 deg outside and 20 deg inside then the warmed air comes in at 8.6 deg. With 100% efficiency it would come in at 10 deg. You'd need a heat pump to do any better than that.
  7.  
    A well designed heat exchanger (with perfectly dry air) could in principle approach 100% efficiency.

    Have a look at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countercurrent_exchange

    I suspect the 86% figure might have something to do with latent heat? Not sure, though. Maybe they just pulled it out of the air.
  8.  
    Thanks for the link passivhausfan, I stand corrected. Efficiency of 86% should result in warmed air at 17.2 deg. I wonder why I don't get that from my unit at home then.

    Counterflow heat exchange looks promising. I see that the Xpelair Xcell range of heat recovery units use a counterflow heat exchanger and claim up to 92% efficiency.
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeDec 27th 2007
     
    Easybuilder if this is so then why don't they just say 86% and not up to?
    I would have thought that the unit could be represented by a "perfect" heat exchanger with a lossy heat path bypassing it, like a bit of none heat insulator ( solid bar of metal). The lossy bit will have a loss directly proportional to temperature. I see the problem with the "perfect" heat exchanger, at the units higher speeds a lot of the air will not touch the sides of the heat exchanger medium and so will go whistling through carrying its heat with it. Or conversley will come in like a jet engine and not pick any heat up!
    Frank
  9.  
    See: http://www.applied-energy.com/clientfiles/File/Brochure%20PDFs%202006-07/XP-home_systems.pdf for details. On page 55 there are performance charts showing how efficiency varies with air flow, just as you expected.
    • CommentAuthortimbrennan
    • CommentTimeDec 11th 2009
     
    Perhaps the main purpose of bathroom ventilation is to remove moisture in the air. If so, wouldn't a dehumidifier do the job just as well with the added advantage of 0% heat loss?
  10.  
    I've had one of the Ventaxia ones fitted to one of my bathrooms. It's a bathroom where the UFH floor area is small, there are no windows and the only other source of heat will be the electric towel rail. It vents to a patio area sheltered from the wind.

    The other bathrooms have 'normal' Ventaxia showerlight extractors. I was worried about the wind thing (plus expense), so I've hedged.

    Unfortunately I can't tell you yet how well it works as the house isn't finished yet.
  11.  
    Posted By: timbrennanPerhaps the main purpose of bathroom ventilation is to remove moisture in the air.
    There's other toxic gases which sometimes need removing from bathrooms ;)

    Paul in Montreal.
  12.  
    I have a similar problem with no ventilation (no air bricks or other vents) whatsoever in my 1970s house (other than windows, all of which are double glazed with no trickle vents).

    In winter I dry the washing over the bath and open the window (but close the bathroom door) during a day when I don't have the heating on and preferably one when it isn't raining outside. However, there will be a lot of heat loss through the window.

    Mechanical ventilation and heat recovery sounds like a good solution but I suspect that the carbon cost would outweigh the benefits (i.e. carbon associated with energy used would be greater than energy associated with the heat lost through opening the window, on basis of gas CH system). Maybe on the basis of installing a PV system the equation would be positive? (But expensive).
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeApr 5th 2016
     
    Has this situation changed at all? I'm looking into getting an extractor with heat recovery but am unsure if it's a good idea after reading around the forum, anyone out there with experiences of living with one?
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeApr 7th 2016
     
    There are more models available now:
    Envirovent Heatsava:
    http://www.envirovent.com/specifier/products/single-room-heat-recovery/heatsava/
    Trickle: 4.9W, 6.5l/s, 22dBA (100mm hole model)
    Boost: 20W, 13 l/s, 39dBA (100mm hole moel)
    Automatic summer bypass mode
    Auto frost protection
    Humidistat auto boost
    up to 75% heat recovery
    100mm or 150mm hole
    Can be installed from inside only
    Removable cleanable heat exchanger
    Wireless option
    IPX4
    £318 (100mm)
    £377 (150mm)


    Vent-Axia Lo-carbon Tempra:
    http://www.vent-axia.com/range/lo-carbon-tempra.html
    3.2W min
    6,9,15 l/s speeds
    up to 78% heat recovery
    Manual summer bypass mode
    IPX4
    100mm hole
    SELV or mains
    £182 (mains pullcord) -£365 (SELV humidistat+timer)

    HRU-Wall
    http://www.justfans.co.uk/heat-recovery-inside-wall-hru-wall-p-1167.html
    100mm and 150mm versions
    'Up to 90% efficient'
    Swaps direction every 70s
    £238 (100mm)
    £313 (150mm)


    The heat-sava seems like a nice design.
  13.  
    We need a new extractor for the bathroom the very draughty little Victorian house we're living in during the self-build. The units above would probably be overkill, but does anyone know of an extractor to use intermittently with an overrun timer that doesn't leak too much when not working and has some heat recovery when it is?
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